Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
